幻想中的SUPERMARKET

說起超市你會想起甚麼？由今季14秋冬開始，相信Chanel這個名字從此會跟supermarket寫上關連。事實上，在Karl爺策劃這場show之前，曾經也有一套電影引發過我對超市的幻想。所以用超市來創作，對我沒太大震撼，反而有一種久別重逢的感覺，令人勾起會心微笑的情節。或許你也有看過，06年的CASHBACK ＜愛情回水＞，記得電影poster的背景正就是超級市場，電影女主角Sharon （Emilia Fox飾）赤裸上身右手攜著購物籃。故事講述男主角Ben （Sean Biggerstaff飾）因失戀弄至晚晚失眠而跑到徹夜不眠的超市當夜班，沉悶的超市工作令他一度發著白日夢幻想能令時間停頓，但他卻可任意穿梭其中，更忽發奇想把一個個赤裸的人類體態和面龐掃描下來。故事就由這個令人充滿幻想的超市開始，收銀員Sharon漸漸成為醫治Ben失眠的靈藥。

"CASHBACK" 電影海報

Ben 可把時間停頓，再用奇想把她們的衣服脫下，用紙筆畫下來。

對比起老佛爺的CHANEL SHOPPING CENTER，這裡沒有裸模，沒有靜止的時間，但有同樣的幻想空間，上演著一幕幕熱鬧喧嘩的Chanel時裝騷，模特兒飾演著高貴顯赫的貴婦人在場地穿梭，看騷的嘉賓在色彩繽紛的超市內拍照，整個場面好比嘉年華般讓人心情高漲。

同樣充滿幻想，同樣發生在超市，同樣任意穿梭。Ben選擇靜止時間進行人體掃描，Karl爺也有攝影機把每個動態靜止下來，紀錄著逛超市的優雅型態：

粉紅色在FW14季大熱

妳有曾幻想過自己可以穿著Chanel經典套裝在超市購物，旁邊還有型男紳士幫妳提著數袋Chanel紙袋？對普通人來說，這真是幻想下好了！哈哈~


對比起Chanel的經典大呢絨套裝，個人認為今次為了配合超市主題的配飾更有玩味：


Chanel購物籃                 


Chanel糖衣裝clutch bag


配合套裝大呢絨布織成的粗框太陽眼鏡

將會大熱的Chanel Sneaker/ Sneaker Boots, 由多種拼布如粗斜和大呢絨布組成, 相信穿慣高跟鞋的女士也會心動。

期待下一個在超市發生的奇想。

時尚前瞻 - 秋冬大衣

Fashion Trend Preview - Fall/Winter Coat 

雖然天氣還尚未轉涼，但眼見就快要到九月，也是時候開始裝置秋冬衣櫥。迎接冷天氣當然少不了必備的禦寒大衣，而縱觀秋冬時裝秀，今年大衣款式著重比例、圖案和皮草的各種變奏。

Though the weather has yet to turn cool, September is just around the corner and it’s time to start thinking about your fall/winter wardrobe.  The overcoat is of course a necessity to welcome cooler weather.  Looking at the 2014 fall/winter runway, this year the overcoat trend focuses on the play of proportions, patterns and fur.

 1. 斗篷 The Cape

 順時針 Clockwise: Dolce & Gabanna, Valentino, House of V, Ellie Saab

斗篷一向都是秋冬常見的大衣款式，今季斗篷重點在於誇張的比例變換，過膝甚至長至腳踝 的斗篷在多場時裝秀紛紛登場。保守的你，可以選擇基本秋冬裸色或深色的長斗篷。若想低調而不過於單調，可以考慮像Valentino前短後長的變奏，增加斗篷的看頭。

The cape has always been a classic in fall/winter fashion, this year, capes concentrate on the play of proportions and length. Over the knee and full length capes can be seen in multiple designer runways.  If you don’t want to appear too over-the-top with the cape, basic fall/winter nudes and darks are good colors to go.  Length variations in the front and back like Valentino’s extended back hem cape are also stylish yet subtle designs.

 2. 格子 The Plaids 

順時針 Clockwise: House of V, Salvatore Ferragamo, Isabel Marant, Tommy Hilfiger

格子布是每年秋冬的必備圖案，想將格子穿得有變化，可以考慮選擇在顏色、布料或格子比例作出不一樣得選擇。就今季而言，無論是毛衣、襯衫或者大衣，在多場時裝秀都能看見漸變色的大格子和絨布或織布的格子物料。

Plaids is a recurring fabric every fall/winter and it can be difficult reinventing this classic pattern. To put a new spin on traditional plaids, you can consider experimenting with different colors, fabrics and sizes. In terms of this season, whether its sweaters, shirts or overcoats, many runways feature new ombre plaids and woven plaids.

3. 皮草 The Fur

順時針 Clockwise : Blumarine, House of V, Fendi, Blumarine

進入秋冬季節當然不少得暖和的皮革。今季皮革趨勢除了誇張的大衣外，更多的是領子、袖 口、下擺的皮草點綴。除此以外，今年在BCBGMAXAZRIA、Balenciaga、Tory Burch等時 裝秀更看見皮草手罩取代手套為保暖衣飾。皮草點綴和可卸式皮草衣飾非常適合低調的秋冬 裝扮，也較適合缺乏寒冬的香港。

Furs are of course a staple of fall/winter wardrobe.  This year, fur trends not only feature oversized coats but also many fur accents on collars, sleeves and hem lines. Besides that, fur muffs are also seen to replace the glove as hand warmers on the runways of BCBGMAXAZRIA, Balenciaga, Tory Burch and more.  Fur embellishments and detachable fur accessories are very suitable for more understated looks and the moderate winters of Hong Kong.

2014 春夏季「 現代藝術與時尚邂逅 - Les Fauves 野獸派」

Spring/Summer 2014 “When Fashion Meets Modernism - Les Fauves”

2014春夏季Catwalk上多個系列都大玩色彩、圖案，充滿源自法國的20世紀畫派Les Fauves的神韻。野獸畫派強調絢麗的色彩運用，各地春夏設計的大膽色調都有著 Les Fauves 大師Matisse的風格。

The Spring/Summer 2014 runway saw an extravaganza of color and pattern, evoking the spirit of 20th century French Fauvism. The essence of Fauvism is a wild use of colors, designers from all over the globe were seen playing with a daring dash of colors, much in the style of Fauvism master Mattise. 

  

Matisse – View of Collioure (1905)

Matisse – Harmony in Red (1905)

Chanel

Chanel今年的春夏系列以藝術為主題，Catwalk兩旁擺滿藝術品，多款設計都有著鮮艷拼色及畫筆刷染圖案。 Les Fauves 風格重點在於用色、潑墨、扎染、色板圖案等等都能製造野獸派效果。

Chanel’s Spring/Summer collection takes “Art” as its theme, the catwalk was decorated by art installations on both sides.  Many of Karl Largerfeld’s designs show feature swatches of a painter’s palette and brush stroke patterns.  The main tip of styling a Fauvist wardrobe is to mix and match colors; paint splash patterns, tie-dyes, and color spectrums are all good to make your ensembles a piece of Fauvist art. 

H&MCrop Top

ZARA blue swatch sheer top

喜愛大膽造型的妳可以考慮上下撞色、撞圖案，展現狂野精神。若比較保守但想嘗試 Les Fauves 造型的，可以考慮七彩上衣搭配淨色長短褲或半截裙，突出混彩主題。除 此之外，利用絲巾、飾物等也可以製造同樣效果。 

Those who aren’t afraid to stand out can clash the colors of tops and bottoms to fully capture the daring spirit of Fauvism.  For those who tread on the safe side but would still like to try out this look, consider matching basic pieces with color tops or bottoms, or even using accessories like scarves and jewelry to add that pop of color. 

Forever 21 geometric chiffon scarf

Forever 21 Pacific scarf 

JAMY WEE crop top $1880 & skirt 

CHICTOPIA suit jacket & shorts

"FASHION BABY" @ Fabrik Gallery

今個暑假上環的Fabrik Gallery將展出上海著名當代藝術家邱勝賢的個人畫展「Fashion Baby」。邱勝賢獨特的畫風結合著中國傳統古典元素以及現代時尚表現主義。今次的油畫系列「Fashion Baby」透過服飾和妝容來探索時間與地理、傳統與時尚的矛盾。每幅肖像都描繪著迷人、嫵媚的中國女性。她們身穿傳統古代中國服裝同時卻戴著1920年代的爵士風格頭飾、口塗紅唇、手拿紅酒，長菸。顏色與服飾的搭配有著強烈的視覺衝突，營造了 非常有趣的時空交錯，反思、 重塑著現代中國女性的形象。喜歡時尚和藝術的朋友從現在至8月15日絕對不容錯過「Fashion Baby」！

This summer Sheung Wan’s Fabrik Gallery is showing the solo exhibition of renowned Shanghai contemporary artist, Qiu Shengxian, in a collection of oil paintings titled “Fashion Baby”. Qiu’s distinctive style combines traditional Chinese elements with contemporary fashion expressionism. “Fashion Baby” explores the boundaries and contradictions between time and space, tradition and modernity through fashion. Each portrait features sensuous, alluring Chinese women. Though they wear traditional ancient Chinese dress, simultaneously they adorn 1920s jazz inspired headpieces and red lips, hold glasses of red wine and cigarettes. The contrast between colors and fashion of different times create very interesting pictures that reflects and re-imagines the modern Chinese woman. For those who love art and fashion, “Fashion Baby” is an exhibition not to be missed from now until August 15.

 

2014 春夏 現代藝術與時尚邂逅 - 抽象主義

Spring/Summer 2014  When Fashion Meets Modernism - Abstract Expressionism

抽像主義透過點、線、色彩、形體、構圖等傳達各種情緒，Catwalk上的2014春夏季時裝中，多款設計有著潑墨色彩及不規則線條搭配，各有Pollock、Kandinsky、 Klee等抽象大師的影子 。

Abstract Expressionism uses dots, lines, colors, shapes and composition to convey different emotions.  On the Spring/Summer 2014 Runway, many collections features designs with paint splashes, irregular lines, and abstract patterns, evoking the masterpieces by Pollock, Kandinsky, and Klee.

Jil Sander 

ZARA 

JAMY WEE

潑墨圖案及顏色鮮艷的不規則碎花圖案，非常適合搭配抽像主義造型，懂得選擇有隨興感的圖案，輕易表達抽像主義中無拘無束的自我。

Paint splatters are very good for creating abstract expressionist looks, likewise colorful irregular floral can also give the sense of spontaneity that’s essence to the freedom of expression in Abstract Expressionism.

 

Celine

ZARA

ZARA

Prubal Gurung 

Monki

ZARA

 ZARA 

以免太過於混雜，選擇有圖案的上衣、短褲或搭配其他淨色衣物，或者選擇連身衣物效果會更好。

To avoid clutter and confusion in your ensemble (we want abstract chic, not abstract chaos), choose printed tops or bottoms to match with basic solid color separates, or patterned one-pieces.

2014 春夏 現代藝術與時尚邂逅 - Art Nouveau 歐洲新藝術

2014 Spring/Summer When Fashion Meets Modernism -  Ar t N o u v e a u 

1910年代的歐洲新藝術風潮，喜歡以華麗曲線、自然圖案及花卉植物圖形等創出天馬行空之意念。今年Gucci 春夏季系列的靈感便來自Art Nouveau 的華麗特質。

European Art Nouveau of the 1910s liked to use elaborate and flamboyant curves, organic shapes and floral patterns to create imaginative designs.  This year, Gucci’s spring collection is inspired by Art Nouveau’s signature vortex swirls.

    Alphonse Mucha 歐洲新藝術插圖 Art Nourveau illustrations

    Gucci

Art Nouveau 風格重點在於結合曲線和植物圖案，每年春夏季必備的Floral 衣物可為大派用場，但需謹記並不是任何碎花都能製造這種新藝術風格。從 Gucci 之系列可見Art Nouveau 的顏色搭配偏向沈色，而且稍微有閃亮元素點綴。這樣的色調配搭才能充分體現像捷克Art Nouveau大師Alphonse Mucha 插畫中表達的成熟神秘感。所以選擇花卉圖案時，可以著重挑選墨綠、酒紅、泥黃、深紫色等，有亮片點綴就更能突出Art Nouveau的柔媚魅力。

The essence of Art Nouveau is the combination of curves and botanical motifs, so the staple spring/summer floral pieces can definitely come in handy.  But remember, Art Nouveau florals isn't just any other beach floral.  From Gucci’s collection, it can be seen that the palette of Art Nouveau favors deeper colors with shiny details.  Only a subdued color palette with colors like emerald, burgundy, maroon and deep purple, can capture the enigma of Alphonse Mucha’s Art Nouveau muses.  Decorative sequence can give the ensemble a touch of subtle glamour.

      H&M                                                                  Forever 21

     HOUSE OF V

「Leather Forever」Hermès - 永恆的皮革工匠

Hermès「Leather Forever」at Taipei

一提到Hermès 都會想起它的經典Kelly包、 Birkin包和絢麗的絲巾，其實這些時尚飾品都屬於Hermès後期的創作。創立於1837年，Hermès開初是始創人Thierry Hermès在巴黎林蔭大道區創立的馬具工作坊，直到1920年代Thierry的第四代後人Émile-Maurice Hermès，推出了手提包、公事包、行李箱、運動及車用配件用品等。從此，Hermès便逐漸發展成為今天的頂尖時尚品牌。

When speaking of Hermès, the iconic Kelly and Birkin Bag and its splendid silk scarves immediately comes to mind, but these fashion accessories are actually creations belonging to the latter part of the brand’s history. Established in 1837, Hermès began as a Parisian equestrian leather crafts workshop run by Thierry Hermès. It was not until the 1920s that Hermès’s fourth generation successor Émile-Maurice Hermès began expanding and reinventing the brand’s line of products to include handbags, briefcases, luggages, sports and motor accessories. Thereon, Hermès grew to become the renowned fashion house it is today. 

台北松山文創園區由現在至6月29日展出「Leather Forever」Hermès皮革展，慶祝品牌177週年之際，展出了Hermès開創以來的多款皮革工藝品。從馬具到時尚衣飾；家居用品到摩托車，藝術展見證了Hermès 與時並進的跨領域創意工藝。

Taipei’s Songshan Cultural and Creative Park currently shows “Leather Forever -- Hermès Exhibition” until June 29 in celebration of the brand’s 177th anniversary. From equestrian leather crafts to fashion accessories, from domestic decoration to motorcycles, the exhibition displays a range of products that testify Hermès’s diverse self-reinvention over the years. 

 

展覽除了介紹Hermès的歷史之外，還詳細地講解了製作皮革工藝品的工序，而且邀請了巴黎皮革工作坊的工匠現場示範Hermès馬鞍縫製過程，以及經典袋款製作。這是繼兩年前的倫和和馬德里展覽後，在亞洲首次舉辦的大型展覽，場地佔了舊松山菸廠兩個倉庫，場景佈置也經過精心設計，充滿趣味性，「Leather Forever」絕對是時尚、皮革愛好者不能錯過的創意展覽。

Besides an overview of Hermès’s history, the exhibition also reveals in detail every step of its leather crafts production, craftsmen are even invited from Hermès’s Paris workshop to demonstrate the leather stitching process in creating horse saddles and classic bags. This exhibition is the first large scale show of its kind in Asia after Hermès exhibited in London and Madrid the past two years. The exhibition spans two warehouses of the old Songshan tobacco factory and the scenography of the exhibition is also artfully designed to match the artistry of Hermès’s craft. “Leather Forever” is definitely a rare exhibition any fashion and leather lover would not want to miss.