一年一度堪稱“時尚奧斯卡”的MET Gala 早前在紐約大都會藝術博物館盛大舉行。繼上年『PUNK: Chaos to Couture』的前衛龐克主題後，今年MET Gala大反轉回到復古華麗魅力，以『Charles James: Beyond Fashion』為題，向美國20世紀第一高端時尚設計師Charles James致敬。相信大家對Charles James這個名字都應該有點陌生，由於這位設計師的品牌現已不存在，非時尚圈的人都很少會認識他。但其實Charles James在40、50年代是全球數一數二的高端時裝設計師，以俱有立體形式感、精湛剪裁的大裙擺、收腰輪廓禮服聞名，因此有著「時裝雕塑家」之稱。當晚走上紅地毯的眾多位時尚界、娛樂圈名人都穿著俱有Charles James精神的禮服出席盛典，豔光四射。雖然我們不是名人巨星，但也可以從紅地毯中獲取靈感，把高端奢華融入日常的低調華麗。
Known as the annual “Fashion Oscars”, the MET Gala 2014 was held at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art recently. After last year’s “PUNK: Chaos to Couture” theme, this year the MET Gala has reverted back to old-school glamour with a black tie affair in honour of the iconic 20th century American Couturier Charles James. This name Charles James probably comes across as unfamiliar to most people, since this designer no longer has a surviving label, he is little known outside of the fashion realm. Charles James was actually one of the world’s foremost couture designers in the 1940s and 50s known for his sculptural, flamboyant ball gowns. That night, starts of the fashion industry and entertainment business all attended the fashion soiree in Charles James-esque dresses and tux. Although we probably won’t ever get the chance to attend the MET Gala, that doesn't stop us from taking a tip from the red carpet and incorporating some of the couture glamour to glam up our daily wear.
優雅雕塑感
Sculptural Elegance
Charles James禮服的特點就是雕塑感，在日常搭配中，可以選擇有立體、層疊或者多摺下襬的裙子製造立體感。若較喜歡含蓄低調風格，也可以選擇有獨特剪裁的短裙、短褲， 例如不對稱摺紙式短裙，將雕塑感融入造型之中。如果用單件配搭，緊記上身最好選擇貼身收腰款，簡潔實色才能凸顯裙襬的立體剪裁。
The essence of Charles James’s ball gowns is sculptural elegance. To play with this in your everyday wardrobe, you can choose skirts and dresses that are three dimensional, layered or pleated. For those who prefer a more subtle style, skirts or shorts with unique tailoring, such as the origami skirt, can also add a touch of sculptural silhouette to the ensemble. If you’re mix and matching with separate pieces, be sure to choose tops that are more form-fitting so that it’d accentuate the sculptural design of the bottom.
Chris by Christopher Bu Forever 21 Topshop
H&M
粉色緞布
Demure Satins
其中最絢麗的禮服物料之一就是緞布，而這也是Charles James最喜愛的面料，因為它高貴之餘也俱有塑造性，能夠剪垂出立體的褶疊。想將緞布融入日常造型並不難，因緞布有隆重的觀感，所以可以選擇一些硬質感、亮面布料而製的短襬連身裙、短身連身褲、或者上下單件搭配，較為適合日常場合。
One of the most luxurious ball-gown fabrics is satin, this was also Charles James material of choice as it’s not only elegant but also versatile to create volume and drapes. Styling this plush fabric into your wardrobe isn't difficult, since satin looks quite formal, you can choose separates, short dresses, or rompers that suits to tone it back down for the everyday.
Monki Ida Sjöstedt Whoop
Topshop
半截型格時尚
Cropped and Chic
每年MET Gala都定會有打破規格的大膽時尚達人，今年很多位名人都以半截禮服重新詮釋高端禮服，就連男星也穿著半截燕尾服出場。半截上衣一般看似適合搭配休閒沙灘風格，但選對物料、搭配適當也可以撐得起較正式的場合。下身可以搭配直身鉛筆長裙製造成熟造型，亦可以搭配打褶裙製造青春活力形象。
Every year in the MET Gala there would be rule breakers who test the dress code to the limits. This year, many celebrities took a spin on black tie and showed up donning cropped gowns, Neil Patrick Harris even wore a cropped tuxedo! Cropped tops may seem like they’re only for the beach, but actually with the right material, it can also be worn in more formal occasions. While the top is cropped, on the bottom you can choose long pencil skirts for minimal sophistication or pleated, more flowing skirts for a hint of playfulness.
Chris by Christopher Bu Fleur
