2014 春夏 現代藝術與時尚邂逅 - 抽象主義

Spring/Summer 2014  When Fashion Meets Modernism - Abstract Expressionism

抽像主義透過點、線、色彩、形體、構圖等傳達各種情緒，Catwalk上的2014春夏季時裝中，多款設計有著潑墨色彩及不規則線條搭配，各有Pollock、Kandinsky、 Klee等抽象大師的影子 。

Abstract Expressionism uses dots, lines, colors, shapes and composition to convey different emotions.  On the Spring/Summer 2014 Runway, many collections features designs with paint splashes, irregular lines, and abstract patterns, evoking the masterpieces by Pollock, Kandinsky, and Klee.

Jil Sander 

ZARA 

JAMY WEE

潑墨圖案及顏色鮮艷的不規則碎花圖案，非常適合搭配抽像主義造型，懂得選擇有隨興感的圖案，輕易表達抽像主義中無拘無束的自我。

Paint splatters are very good for creating abstract expressionist looks, likewise colorful irregular floral can also give the sense of spontaneity that’s essence to the freedom of expression in Abstract Expressionism.

 

Celine

ZARA

ZARA

Prubal Gurung 

Monki

ZARA

 ZARA 

以免太過於混雜，選擇有圖案的上衣、短褲或搭配其他淨色衣物，或者選擇連身衣物效果會更好。

To avoid clutter and confusion in your ensemble (we want abstract chic, not abstract chaos), choose printed tops or bottoms to match with basic solid color separates, or patterned one-pieces.

2014 春夏 現代藝術與時尚邂逅 - Art Nouveau 歐洲新藝術

2014 Spring/Summer When Fashion Meets Modernism -  Ar t N o u v e a u 

1910年代的歐洲新藝術風潮，喜歡以華麗曲線、自然圖案及花卉植物圖形等創出天馬行空之意念。今年Gucci 春夏季系列的靈感便來自Art Nouveau 的華麗特質。

European Art Nouveau of the 1910s liked to use elaborate and flamboyant curves, organic shapes and floral patterns to create imaginative designs.  This year, Gucci’s spring collection is inspired by Art Nouveau’s signature vortex swirls.

    Alphonse Mucha 歐洲新藝術插圖 Art Nourveau illustrations

    Gucci

Art Nouveau 風格重點在於結合曲線和植物圖案，每年春夏季必備的Floral 衣物可為大派用場，但需謹記並不是任何碎花都能製造這種新藝術風格。從 Gucci 之系列可見Art Nouveau 的顏色搭配偏向沈色，而且稍微有閃亮元素點綴。這樣的色調配搭才能充分體現像捷克Art Nouveau大師Alphonse Mucha 插畫中表達的成熟神秘感。所以選擇花卉圖案時，可以著重挑選墨綠、酒紅、泥黃、深紫色等，有亮片點綴就更能突出Art Nouveau的柔媚魅力。

The essence of Art Nouveau is the combination of curves and botanical motifs, so the staple spring/summer floral pieces can definitely come in handy.  But remember, Art Nouveau florals isn't just any other beach floral.  From Gucci’s collection, it can be seen that the palette of Art Nouveau favors deeper colors with shiny details.  Only a subdued color palette with colors like emerald, burgundy, maroon and deep purple, can capture the enigma of Alphonse Mucha’s Art Nouveau muses.  Decorative sequence can give the ensemble a touch of subtle glamour.

      H&M                                                                  Forever 21

     HOUSE OF V

「Leather Forever」Hermès - 永恆的皮革工匠

Hermès「Leather Forever」at Taipei

一提到Hermès 都會想起它的經典Kelly包、 Birkin包和絢麗的絲巾，其實這些時尚飾品都屬於Hermès後期的創作。創立於1837年，Hermès開初是始創人Thierry Hermès在巴黎林蔭大道區創立的馬具工作坊，直到1920年代Thierry的第四代後人Émile-Maurice Hermès，推出了手提包、公事包、行李箱、運動及車用配件用品等。從此，Hermès便逐漸發展成為今天的頂尖時尚品牌。

When speaking of Hermès, the iconic Kelly and Birkin Bag and its splendid silk scarves immediately comes to mind, but these fashion accessories are actually creations belonging to the latter part of the brand’s history. Established in 1837, Hermès began as a Parisian equestrian leather crafts workshop run by Thierry Hermès. It was not until the 1920s that Hermès’s fourth generation successor Émile-Maurice Hermès began expanding and reinventing the brand’s line of products to include handbags, briefcases, luggages, sports and motor accessories. Thereon, Hermès grew to become the renowned fashion house it is today. 

台北松山文創園區由現在至6月29日展出「Leather Forever」Hermès皮革展，慶祝品牌177週年之際，展出了Hermès開創以來的多款皮革工藝品。從馬具到時尚衣飾；家居用品到摩托車，藝術展見證了Hermès 與時並進的跨領域創意工藝。

Taipei’s Songshan Cultural and Creative Park currently shows “Leather Forever -- Hermès Exhibition” until June 29 in celebration of the brand’s 177th anniversary. From equestrian leather crafts to fashion accessories, from domestic decoration to motorcycles, the exhibition displays a range of products that testify Hermès’s diverse self-reinvention over the years. 

 

展覽除了介紹Hermès的歷史之外，還詳細地講解了製作皮革工藝品的工序，而且邀請了巴黎皮革工作坊的工匠現場示範Hermès馬鞍縫製過程，以及經典袋款製作。這是繼兩年前的倫和和馬德里展覽後，在亞洲首次舉辦的大型展覽，場地佔了舊松山菸廠兩個倉庫，場景佈置也經過精心設計，充滿趣味性，「Leather Forever」絕對是時尚、皮革愛好者不能錯過的創意展覽。

Besides an overview of Hermès’s history, the exhibition also reveals in detail every step of its leather crafts production, craftsmen are even invited from Hermès’s Paris workshop to demonstrate the leather stitching process in creating horse saddles and classic bags. This exhibition is the first large scale show of its kind in Asia after Hermès exhibited in London and Madrid the past two years. The exhibition spans two warehouses of the old Songshan tobacco factory and the scenography of the exhibition is also artfully designed to match the artistry of Hermès’s craft. “Leather Forever” is definitely a rare exhibition any fashion and leather lover would not want to miss. 

時尚新地標 - 中環PMQ

Fashion’s New Address - Central PMQ 

香港首個大型藝術文化新地標「PMQ元創方」近日吸引不少城中潮人到訪和關注，而且，剛到港的1600隻熊貓更會在月底進駐PMQ展覽，相信PMQ將會成為城中熱點。除了藝術文化，PMQ還有著不少時尚創意元素。每個週末舉行的「Night Market中環夜市」都會有不同的設計師時裝及首飾攤位，包覧本地原創設計、外國進口款式及Vintage古董飾品，類似的市集在香港不多，絕對值得一覽。

Hong Kong’s first ever large scale creativity cultural hub PMQ has already been gathering much noise. Paul Grangeon’s newly arrived touring papier-mâché pandas set to finale in PMQ at the end of the month will surely make the destination talk of the town this month. Besides arts and culture, PMQ also has a lot of fashion innovation. The Night Market held on the last weekend of every month features stalls of local, foreign and vintage clothing, shoes, bags and jewelry. There are definitely not many regular markets of this kind around Hong Kong, so it is well worth a visit.

除此以外，PMQ更有不少特色服裝店舖，其中「JOYCE | CARES」挺有意思，是屬於精品時裝集團JOYCE Boutique旗下的品牌。JOYCE Cares是一個展示及售賣新晉設計師作品的平台，會定時更換焦點設計師。目前的焦點是美國藝術家Josh Maupin，他擅長繪畫塗鴉漫畫，他把藝術和時裝互相結合之作品，創造了獨特的街頭時尚。

In addition to the Night Market, PMQ also has a lot of unique fashion shops, “JOYCE | CARES” is particularly interesting.  Part of the JOYCE Boutique corporation, JOYCE Cares is a sustainable fashion talent initiative that seeks to nurture and showcase new and forthcoming designers. The shop will rotate spotlight designers regularly, at the moment, Texas artist Josh Maupin is being exhibited.  He is known for his graffiti-inspired comic illustrations and currently the shop displays unique street style clothing that combines his art with fashion.

 

除了外國創意當然也有本地創作，JOYCE Cares旁邊就是三位本地新晉設計師－－「Yeung Chin」、「ISATISSE by Isabel Tong」、「Cho Chan」－－的陳列室，在PMQ首發 2014春夏系列。

Besides foreign talent, there is also local creatives.  Next to JOYCE Cares is a showroom and shop of three local debut brands -- “Yeung Chin”, “ISATISSE by Isabel Tong” and “Cho Chan”.

PMQ元創方位於中環鴨巴甸街35號，陸續還有新店進駐，於六月下旬將正式開幕。

PMQ is located at 35 Aberdeen Street, Central. Shops are still opening in the lead up to the grand opening set for the end of this June.

時尚奧斯卡2014 - 復古華麗秀

Fashion Oscars MET Gala 2014 - Old School Glamour

一年一度堪稱“時尚奧斯卡”的MET Gala 早前在紐約大都會藝術博物館盛大舉行。繼上年『PUNK: Chaos to Couture』的前衛龐克主題後，今年MET Gala大反轉回到復古華麗魅力，以『Charles James: Beyond Fashion』為題，向美國20世紀第一高端時尚設計師Charles James致敬。相信大家對Charles James這個名字都應該有點陌生，由於這位設計師的品牌現已不存在，非時尚圈的人都很少會認識他。但其實Charles James在40、50年代是全球數一數二的高端時裝設計師，以俱有立體形式感、精湛剪裁的大裙擺、收腰輪廓禮服聞名，因此有著「時裝雕塑家」之稱。當晚走上紅地毯的眾多位時尚界、娛樂圈名人都穿著俱有Charles James精神的禮服出席盛典，豔光四射。雖然我們不是名人巨星，但也可以從紅地毯中獲取靈感，把高端奢華融入日常的低調華麗。

Known as the annual “Fashion Oscars”, the MET Gala 2014 was held at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art recently.  After last year’s “PUNK: Chaos to Couture” theme, this year the MET Gala has reverted back to old-school glamour with a black tie affair in honour of the iconic 20th century American Couturier Charles James.  This name Charles James probably comes across as unfamiliar to most people, since this designer no longer has a surviving label, he is little known outside of the fashion realm.  Charles James was actually one of the world’s foremost couture designers in the 1940s and 50s known for his sculptural, flamboyant ball gowns. That night, starts of the fashion industry and entertainment business all attended the fashion soiree in Charles James-esque dresses and tux.  Although we probably won’t ever get the chance to attend the MET Gala, that doesn't stop us from taking a tip from the red carpet and incorporating some of the couture glamour to glam up our daily wear.

   
    優雅雕塑感

    Sculptural Elegance 

Charles James禮服的特點就是雕塑感，在日常搭配中，可以選擇有立體、層疊或者多摺下襬的裙子製造立體感。若較喜歡含蓄低調風格，也可以選擇有獨特剪裁的短裙、短褲， 例如不對稱摺紙式短裙，將雕塑感融入造型之中。如果用單件配搭，緊記上身最好選擇貼身收腰款，簡潔實色才能凸顯裙襬的立體剪裁。

The essence of Charles James’s ball gowns is sculptural elegance.  To play with this in your everyday wardrobe, you can choose skirts and dresses that are three dimensional, layered or pleated.  For those who prefer a more subtle style, skirts or shorts with unique tailoring, such as the origami skirt, can also add a touch of sculptural silhouette to the ensemble.  If you’re mix and matching with separate pieces, be sure to choose tops that are more form-fitting so that it’d accentuate the sculptural design of the bottom.

 

    Chris by Christopher Bu                Forever 21                          Topshop 

    H&M 

    粉色緞布

    Demure Satins                    

                 

其中最絢麗的禮服物料之一就是緞布，而這也是Charles James最喜愛的面料，因為它高貴之餘也俱有塑造性，能夠剪垂出立體的褶疊。想將緞布融入日常造型並不難，因緞布有隆重的觀感，所以可以選擇一些硬質感、亮面布料而製的短襬連身裙、短身連身褲、或者上下單件搭配，較為適合日常場合。

One of the most luxurious ball-gown fabrics is satin, this was also Charles James material of choice as it’s not only elegant but also versatile to create volume and drapes. Styling this plush fabric into your wardrobe isn't difficult, since satin looks quite formal, you can choose separates, short dresses, or rompers that suits to tone it back down for the everyday. 

    Monki Ida Sjöstedt Whoop

 

    Topshop 

    半截型格時尚

    Cropped and Chic

每年MET Gala都定會有打破規格的大膽時尚達人，今年很多位名人都以半截禮服重新詮釋高端禮服，就連男星也穿著半截燕尾服出場。半截上衣一般看似適合搭配休閒沙灘風格，但選對物料、搭配適當也可以撐得起較正式的場合。下身可以搭配直身鉛筆長裙製造成熟造型，亦可以搭配打褶裙製造青春活力形象。

Every year in the MET Gala there would be rule breakers who test the dress code to the limits.  This year, many celebrities took a spin on black tie and showed up donning cropped gowns, Neil Patrick Harris even wore a cropped tuxedo!  Cropped tops may seem like they’re only for the beach, but actually with the right material, it can also be worn in more formal occasions.  While the top is cropped, on the bottom you can choose long pencil skirts for minimal sophistication or pleated, more flowing skirts for a hint of playfulness. 

  

  

     Chris by Christopher Bu             Fleur